The story behind the Reinheitsgebot
The German purity laws occupies an important place in
beer lore, but I have mixed feelings about it. I have long planned to
blog about it. What has kept me from doing so, is my lack of
understanding of it. It's not the old-fashioned German or for want of
available explanations of its meaning and significance. Quite the
opposite, there are so many interpretations and explanations that I
simply do not know which to believe. Thus, there must be a large
number of misconceptions and myths surrounding it, many which are
obviously false. In this entry, I will try to separate the truths from
the myths.
Let us start with the basics. Duke Wilhelm IV of Bavaria signed the German purity law (Reinheitsgebot) on April 23, 1516 in Ingolstadt. The law basically states that (1) the maximum allowed prices for beer; and (2) that beer may only be brewed from barley, hops and water. The text of the Reinheitsgebot is: (taken from the article "History of German Brewing" by Karl J. Eden, published in 'zymurgy' magazine, Vol. 16, No. 4 Special 1993.)
We hereby proclaim and decree, by Authority of our Province, that henceforth in the Duchy of Bavaria, in the country as well as in the cities and marketplaces, the following rules apply to the sale of beer: From Michaelmas to Georgi, the price for one Mass [Bavarian Liter 1,069] or one Kopf [bowl-shaped container for fluids, not quite one Mass], is not to exceed one Pfennig Munich value, and From Georgi to Michaelmas, the Mass shall not be sold for more than two Pfennig of the same value, the Kopf not more than three Heller [Heller usually one-half Pfennig]. If this not be adhered to, the punishment stated below shall be administered. Should any person brew, or otherwise have, other beer than March beer, it is not to be sold any higher than one Pfennig per Mass. Furthermore, we wish to emphasize that in future in all cities, markets and in the country, the only ingredients used for the brewing of beer must be Barley, Hops and Water. Whosoever knowingly disregards or transgresses upon this ordinance, shall be punished by the Court authorities' confiscating such barrels of beer, without fail. Should, however, an innkeeper in the country, city or markets buy two or three pails of beer (containing 60 Mass) and sell it again to the common peasantry, he alone shall be permitted to charge one Heller more for the Mass of the Kopf, than mentioned above. Furthermore, should there arise a scarcity and subsequent price increase of the barley (also considering that the times of harvest differ, due to location), WE, the Bavarian Duchy, shall have the right to order curtailments for the good of all concerned.
This law applied to Bavaria - which was smaller than the Bavaria of today. It was revised several times, and in the course of German unification, it was extended to the whole of Germany in 1906.
As I said, there are a number of misconceptions, myths and maybes. Let us go through them:
First it is said to be the first consumer protection
law. This is not correct. Emperor Barbarossa granted Augsburg its
local civil code in 1156 (Justitia Civitatis Augustensis) in which is
stated that a brewer who brews bad beer will be fined and have that
beer confiscated. If repeated twice, he will lose the right to
brew. Laws restricting ingredients of beer were also given in Munich
in 1363 and in Nuremberg in 1394. A
list of references to these and other laws thoroughly shows that
1516 was just one event in a long trend. Even King Hammurabi of
Babylon living around 1770 BC made laws
that protected the consumers from watered down beer by punishing its
production by death penalty. These examples relate to beer, but
consumer protection laws also existed for other merchandise. Thus, the
myth of Reinheitsgebot as the first consumer protection law is not
based on reality. Although it can be claimed to be an old consumer
protection law, it is not even an early consumer protection law (and
we will get to the "consumer protection" part later).- Others say it is the oldest consumer protection law still in
existence. However, the problem is that it is not really in
existence, and breweries that proudly state that they are brewing
according to it, are doing this not by law, but by their own free
will. EU ruled
against the German Reinheitsgebot in March 1987, because it was
used to exclude beer from other countries, for instance many of the
Belgian beers, and thus was an obstacle to free marked of EU. To the
best of my knowledge, Norway was the last country to have the
Reinheitsgebot incorporated in its formal laws, but it was removed in
1994 when entering the EEA. The former German colony of Namibia is
said to produce no beer not in accordance with the Reinheitsgebot, but
I have found no reference to a law declaring this. It appears that the
Reinheitsgebot was never one law that was continued over the
centuries. Rather, it was an idea, that was carried from one code of
law to the next, disappearing and resurfacing, originating long before
1516, but never tied to one particular code of law for the hole period
from 1516 until today.
- It is claimed that the Reinheitsgebot is is still adhered to
even if it not a formal law, and that makes it into some sort of
semi-alive, moral law. The Germans themselves had considerable number
of formal loopholes in the law when it was still in existence - so one
gets the feeling that it was followed only when practical. They
allowed wheat beers, rye beers, the addition of sugar to top-fermented
beers, the addition of minerals to the water in order to make it
suitable for brewing, not to mention the addition of carbondioxid. The
allowed brewing season was expanded when refrigeration was
invented. And in addition, the parts of the law dealing with pricing
is - unfortunately - not enforced. In effect, the Reinheitsgebot is
simply the ever-evolving set self-imposed restrictions that the
brewing industry by consensus wants to follow. Thus, that makes
current "brewed according to the Reinheitsgebot" an unimpressive (but
not totally worthless) statement. I am not necessarily against these
practices, I just want to point out the inconsistency between them and
the bold claims (albeit implicit) often made by breweries who say the
follow the law.
- The traditional explanation for the Reinheitsgebot is that it is
about the quality of the beer. At best, that is partly
true, it is about the ingredients rather than the quality. However,
there is the question of whether it really is a law that applies to
the ingredients of the beer. As can be seen from the text of the law,
it mostly applies to pricing, and the provision relating to the
ingredients of beer is merely an afterthought. An argument can be made
that the Reinheitsgebot is really about resource utilization rather
than about the quality of the beer. By specifying barley - and
implicitly excluding wheat - one ensured that the grains better suited
for the making of bread was not used for beer. Supporting this
argument is the fact that in Bavaria and Germany, wheat-beers were
reserved for aristocrats, and they won that right long after the
Reinheitsgebot, and only after much dispute. It can also be claimed
that the maximum pricing of beer pushes farmers and brewers in the
direction of using the barley for bread rather than beer in years of
bad harvests. Is it about resource utilization rather than about
consumer protection? Perhaps. I can find no other reason for the
exclusion of wheat-beers.
- It is also possible to argue that the Reinheitsgebot is really
about making the playing field fair for the brewers: that they
all have the same standard set of rules. It is hard to accept this
explanation, though. Because the Reinheitsgebot has such a long
history of being used as the opposite: excluding breweries from the
marked based on rules about the ingredients. Still, there are numerous
historic examples of where adjuncts were added to mask defects or give
the beer impression of being stronger than it was, so the argument can
not be dismissed without further examination.
- A third possible explanation is that the restriction of
ingredients in the beer was to protect the society and its members
from the psychedelic effects of the more exotic adjuncts. We know
well the effects of alcohol, and the weak effects of hops are also
understood. However, a huge number of other adjuncts than hops were
added to beer, and a large number of psychedelic and even enteogenic
effects are known or suspected. It suffice to mention hen-bane, which
by its name "bilsenkraut" is said to have been a main ingredient in
the original, medieval, heavy beer that gave the village of Pilsen its
name (not to be confused with the modern Pilsner beer developed and
named after the town in the nineteenth century). The caricature of
witches is that of old ladies brewing in large cauldrons, using frogs
and herbs and dragons and what-not It is probably a reminiscence of
brewers of the Middle Ages. They were mainly woman and they often used
a varied set of adjuncts. No one would brew with such a huge cauldron
unless it was to make a drink to quench the thirst. The size of the
cauldrons is therefore the best indication that this was beer. Thus,
in this context, the Reinheitsgebot is really a piece of
witch-hunting, prohibiting the stronger (albeit not necessarily in
alcohol) brews of the traditional "alewives". This explanation may
seem somewhat far fetched, but I do not think it can be dismissed
altogether.
- Much has been said about the lack of mentioning yeast in
the Reinheitsgebot of 1516. Still, it was mentioned in 1551 in a
Munich regulation. The claim that brewers didn't notice yeast or
understand its significance until Louis Pasteur (1876) is simply
nonsense. Several explanations has been stated for the lack of yeast
in the 1516 text: that their beer were naturally fermented (like the
lambic); that the yeast of a brewery resided in the brewing equipment
and was not explicitly added; and that yeast was not considered an
ingredient. I believe that the last one is the only explanation is
trustworthy. Brewers in that time new about yeast, and as a routine
they carried the yeast from one batch onto the next - just as we do
today. They did not know why yeast was important, but they knew it was
important. However, yeast was perhaps seen more as brewing "equipment"
or a product of brewing rather than an ingredient of the product. So,
just as a cow is not considered an ingredient of milk and a
ploughshare is not considered an ingredient of barley, so was yeast
not considered an ingredient of beer, only part of the process. Even
today, most beer is filtered in order to remove the yeast, which is
considered a facilitator of brewing rather than an ingredient you want
poured into your glass. Therefore, the lack of yeast in the original
Reinheitsgebot is neither dramatic nor strange.
- It has been claimed that the Reinheitsgebot has helped Germany preserve at large number of breweries. Although it is true that Germany has a large number of breweries, and Bavaria has the greatest share of those, I doubt that there is much truth to this. First, other countries has experienced the all too common oligarchization of the beer marked, even during the years where a local, formal Reinheitsgebot was in force. Second, Bavaria have not lost its large number of breweries after the Reinheitsgebot were lifted nearly twenty years ago. And third, the USA has passed Germany in number of breweries, without the help of neither a formal nor a significant informal Reinheitsgebot. I believe that if the Reinheitsgebot has helped maintain the number of breweries in Germany and in particular in Bavaria, it must be due to a patriotic sense of being peculiar and different, rather than due to any quality-improving effects of the law.
I've also seen Weiss bier claimed to be brewed according to the Reinheitsgebot of 1516 - that is amusing, although it would be technically correct if they just dropped the 1516-bit. And for the Pilsner beer, for which a large number of breweries claim on their bottles: "according to the Reinheitsgebot of 1516"? It makes you wonder whether they actually know that law or not. It would be better to write "brewed according to the Reinheitsgebot" or even "brewed according to the German Reinheitsgebot, of which an early but now out-dated instance was given in 1516.".
But it doesn't sound so snappy ...
/beer | permanent link (2 writeback) | edit
